“This plant was brought to me by my buddy Nikitas Kapsalis. On March 30, 1986, he located it on the Dovra plain. Its flower is not in good enough shape to properly identify its scientific name.” I’ve never been more captivated by handwritten notes about plants. They are detailed, numerous – estimated to be about 1,260 – and accompanied by the actual plants. These notes belonged to Kostas Lazaridis (1904-1989), a tireless researcher, naturalist, and teacher who meticulously documented every plant he encountered. He spent years exploring Zagori, leaving behind an invaluable legacy of publications on the region’s history, flora and folklore.
In another display, for example, there is an archive of handwritten cards, alphabetically sorted, chronicling the superstitions of the people of Zagori. The Rizarios Foundation assembled the entire collection and stored it in Lazaridis’ lovely ancestral home in Koukouli, resulting in an unexpectedly fascinating museum (Tel. (+30) 26530.717.75) – a rare treasure in a small community. Koukouli may be small now, with only 10 residents in the winter, and one of Zagori’s least popular destinations; yet, in the 18th century, during the Ottoman era, it was a flourishing community. Money sent by expatriates was used to build homes, bridges, schools and churches.
Today, you can wander through the serene cobblestone alleys of this enchanting village and admire the elegant stone palaces crowned with distinctive Zagori slate roofs. Don’t miss the stunning hayats – expansive shaded galleries that open onto the lush gardens – of the magnificent Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Nestled beside the ancient plane tree, a hallmark of Epirus villages, you’ll find the charming “Frantzato” café. Previously known as “the Vikos Doctor’s” café, this beloved spot, run by Nikos Kontodimos, used to serve infusions made from the famous herbs of Vikos. Here, the experience feels like a seamless extension of the local museum – like witnessing theory put into practice.
Since Kontodimos’ retirement, the café has been taken over by a younger team passionate about outdoor adventure. Their company, Zagori Outdoor Activities, offers an array of exhilarating experiences, from rafting and cycling to hiking. It is worth trying the trail crossing the Koukouli Steps, descending to the Missios Bridge, and ascending the Vitsa Steps (about two hours). If you’re pressed for time, opt for the shorter trek to the iconic Kokkoris Bridge (15-20 minutes). And speaking of bridges, the region is home to some of Greece’s most stunning structures. Don’t miss the enchanting three-arched Kalogeriko Bridge or the picturesque Kontodimos Bridge, located near the outlet of the Vikaki Gorge. These architectural gems are not to be missed!
This article appeared in Greece Is (www.greece-is.com), a Kathimerini publishing initiative.
