Heatwaves hurting Greece’s wine regions
“This is the worst year we’ve seen in three decades. There are no grapes. We are in the second year of drought, and the plants cannot survive; the vines have burnt leaves. We have already requested assessors from ELGA [the Hellenic Organization of Agricultural Insurance] to come and start the compensation process,” says Matthaios Dimopoulos, CEO of Santo Wines, describing the dire situation in the vineyards of Santorini, where the renowned Assyrtiko is produced, just weeks before the harvest begins on the island.
The prolonged heatwave, combined with severe drought, has undoubtedly worsened conditions on Santorini. However, scientists explain that this is not a random occurrence but a chronic issue threatening vineyards on the Cycladic island as well as other parts of Greece.
“Santorini, along with grape growers in other parts of the country, will need to make difficult decisions quickly. We are running out of time,” says Stefanos Koundouras, associate professor of viticulture at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. “Given the current situation, we need to consider drastic solutions, possibly different from those we have used so far. Wine is not a basic necessity, and soon, due to the lack of water resources, we may face the dilemma of what to water: tomatoes or the vineyard,” adds Ioannis Vogiatzis, winemaker and president of the Hellenic Wine Association (SEO).
‘Santorini, along with grape growers in other parts of the country, will need to make difficult decisions quickly. We are running out of time’
Heading north
The vineyards of Attica, apart for the northern areas, have suffered significant damage from the prolonged heatwave. “In many vineyards, the leaves have dried up, and due to the drought, there is no water; they are suffering greatly,” explains Andreas Gikas, president of the Association of Winemakers of the Attica Vineyard (ENOAA). “We are learning to adapt to climate change. We will see different types of wines, less fruity and with higher alcohol content. The vineyards are moving further north; England is now producing sparkling wines, and the temperature in Saint Petersburg was 21 degrees Celsius a few days ago,” he notes. He also emphasizes the need to revive the practice of using water collection tanks, which had been abandoned. “In Italy, every grape grower has their own tank.”
Resistance to heat
Winemaker Aris Tselepos describes the challenges faced by vineyards in Nemea, in the northeastern Peloponnese, this year as “classic Nemea difficulties.” Vineyards on the Nemea plain have experienced damage nearly every season for many years, primarily due to weather conditions. “Some clonal selections are likely needed to plant vines that are more resistant to heat,” he suggests.
In the region of Mantineia, in the Peloponnese’s Arcadia region, renowned for its famous Moschofilero grape variety, the situation is very challenging. “It hasn’t rained for over two months, which is unusual for Mantineia. Additionally, the temperature doesn’t drop at night, which is problematic. The vines seem to be holding up, but we still have some time until the harvest begins at the end of September,” he adds.
Koundouras has been studying the effects of climate change on vineyards for years and explains that this is a significant issue that needs to be recognized and addressed promptly. “The growth period for grapes runs from March to September. During these months, temperatures have risen. It’s not just the maximum temperatures that have increased, but also the frequency and duration of heatwaves. When temperatures reach 37 degrees Celsius for many days, it puts a significant strain on the vines. Moreover, nighttime temperatures have also risen, meaning the vines do not get the rest and recovery they need at night,” he emphasizes.
