A gifted Greek reigns in London
Sophia Kokosalaki is recovering from yet another hectic London Fashion Week, during which she presented her Fall 2002 ready-to-wear collection. Though primarily designed for women, a number of male models showed her work for gentlemen too. Rave reviews followed the February 20 presentation: A «standout show» in a «slow London season» reported Suzy Menkes, the authoritative fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, while Sarah Mower, commenting on Style.com, referred to Kokosalaki as London’s «greatest remaining hope.» This is well-deserved praise for Kokosalaki, whose focused attitude reflects her character as well as her developing clothesmaking business. «I love working constantly, and now after the show is over, I don’t know what to do with myself,» said the designer from London, during a phone interview with Kathimerini English Edition. One can only presume that she already working, or at least thinking about the next show. Not since Yiannis Tseklenis hit the international outlets with his energetic prints in the 1970s has a Greek-born and bred designer made global fashion headlines, with designers such as Costas Murkudis, Peter Speliopoulos and more recently, John Varvatos, having all been born abroad. Kokosalaki’s career, however, is unfolding at a particularly exciting time, with the fashion industry establishing a new set of rules as local and international boundaries are blurred. Above all, Kokosalaki is a player in a game which she understands: While part of her creativity stems from her family roots, her fashion message is forward-looking. Essentially the designer does not want to be viewed solely in terms of her origins, which ultimately risks the label of «ethnic designer.» «I developed my aesthetic side back home, in Greece, but I am unable to pinpoint exactly what these influences are,» says the 29-year-old designer. These influences come from different sources at different times. A few seasons ago, for instance, the designer was celebrated for her drapes. Then, for her spring/summer 2002 collection, the Greek ingredient was vivid throughout a stunning collection with pagan references and elements from the Minoan civilization, which also included minute pleats. And as for last week’s presentation of the autumn/winter 2002 collection, Kokosalaki decided to play down her Greek references. They were, however, apparent in terms of styling, with the male models walking down the catwalk with a traditional black, Cretan look, made in Rethymnon. Instead, the beautiful, invariably black collection focused on a central theme of graphic designs and typography, with a number of symbols mapped out on threads – a novel technique the designer has been working on for some time. Several garments featured more than three months’ worth of handwork. What inspired this collection? Quite simply, the art of bookbinding: Kokosalaki was looking at a Greek book which contained graphic, cubist and Byzantine references. «This was a very difficult collection to realize in terms of fittings; it is all about threading, very labor-intensive, going slightly beyond ready-to-wear,» said Kokosalaki. «But that does not mean that it is fragile; the technique works well and the garments can be worn over and over again.» Born and educated in Athens, Kokosalaki’s first venture into fashion was a local label, created with a friend. The working duo hit it off creatively, but local infrastructure was inadequate for further development. At the age of 24, Kokosalaki decided to leave home and further her studies; her choice was London’s Central St Martins, the venerable school featuring such prominent graduates as John Galliano. Kokosalaki’s graduate show was noted by various buyers, including London’s sophisticated Browns. Last year, Kokosalaki landed a contract as guest designer for Ruffo Research, the Italian leather house which every year invites a new designer to design the label. During her one-year contract with Ruffo, Kokosalaki presented two well-received collections in Milan. Following her design stint in Italy, Kokosalaki returned to her base in London, where her self-financed label moves forward, catering to a developing and faithful clientele. «Production is still difficult. I have to do all the quality control on my own,» said the designer, adding that while some production unfolds in Italy, especially for menswear, most of the detailed handwork is kept for London. Sales, on the other hand, are handled in both Milan and Paris. With the Sophia Kokosalaki label currently available in 60 sales points all over the world – including hot spots such as Henry Bendel and Language in New York; Maria Luisa in Paris; Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Liberty’s in London, and Corso Como in Milan – the designer is satisfied that her clothes are getting the right attention. (In Athens, look for the label at Bettina.) The big question, however, is still awaiting an answer, as fashion professionals continue speculating on what lies ahead for the talented and already respected designer. Though her company is doing well and she does not necessarily feel she needs a backer – enjoying a creative freedom seems more important right now – her lips are sealed when it comes to discussing any proposals for signing a contract to design an established, international label. Two seasons ago the rumor was that she had signed on with Spanish Loewe, currently owned by luxury colossus LVMH, Moet-Hennessy-Louis Vuitton. All she is willing to reveal at this point, however, is that she is coming to Athens in April, in order to present her most recent collection at a charity event organized by the Athens College, with all proceeds going toward the educational establishment’s scholarship fund. A gifted Greek is coming home, if only for a little while. All she is willing to reveal at this point, however, is that she is coming to Athens in April, in order to present her most recent collection at a charity event organized by the Athens College, with all proceeds going toward the educational establishment’s scholarship fund. A gifted Greek is coming home, if only for a little while.
