Mytilene’s iconic cafe comes alive through art
The renovated Panellinion hosts an exhibition of works by 22 renowned artists, with the ultimate goal of fully restoring the venue to its former glory
The reopening of an iconic venue, closed for two and a half years, was marked by the launch of a painting and engraving exhibition at the historic Panellinion cafe in Mytilene, capital of the island of Lesvos in the eastern Aegean. The event was organized by the Peri Technon Karteris gallery, author Nadia Liarelli and Piraeus Bank (owner of the property) on Friday.
Panellinion, founded in 1916 and a landmark in Mytilene, has entrances both from the waterfront and Ermou market. Its revival is closely tied to the personal commitment of Piraeus Bank CEO Christos Megalou, whose family originates from Lesvos. It also aligns with the bank’s broader initiatives to support the local community, as Megalou explained to Kathimerini, similar to their operation of the Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production in the island’s Agia Paraskevi district.
‘Panellinion is not just a building but a part of the collective memory and cultural identity of Mytilene’
The exhibition, titled “Art at the Panellinion,” showcases works by 22 renowned artists, including Kostas Garyfallos, Eleni Giannikou, Efthimios Efthimiadis, Spyros Koursaris, Alekos Fasianos, and others, highlighting the vibrancy and dynamism of contemporary Greek art. The event also spurred Piraeus Bank to fully renovate the space.
“Panellinion is not just a building but a part of the collective memory and cultural identity of Mytilene,” Liarelli told the newspaper. Established in the early 20th century, it became the center of the new urban core around the Church of Agios Therapon, symbolizing the transition from Ottoman rule to Greek sovereignty after Lesvos was liberated in 1912.
It quickly became a meeting place for Mytilene’s intellectuals, political leaders, and notable figures of the so-called 1930s generation – a group of influential writers, poets and artists that played a pivotal role in shaping modern Greek literature and culture. Period photographs show statesman Eleftherios Venizelos watching billiard matches, and the venue also served as a clubhouse for the Liberal Party. Panellinion even operated as a luxurious casino, earning a reputation for years as the most expensive establishment in the Aegean. Many stories unfolded at its tables – tales of lost fortunes, as well as performances and concerts – making it a hub of social and cultural life.
The cafe’s ownership history was complex. One of its owners bequeathed it to the Communist Party of Greece (KKE), but since the party was illegal at the time, the will was annulled, and the cafe remained under the control of the other co-owners. In the late 20th century, Panellinion and the adjacent store, Crystal, fell into decline after being acquired by the Agricultural Bank of Greece (ATE) and being designated as protected buildings. Despite protests to preserve their character, Crystal was declassified in 2005 in terms of its use. However, Panellinion remains protected for its historical and cultural significance, with a permit for use as a cafe.
In 2009, the Michailidis family reopened the historic cafe, renting the space until May 2022, when they returned it to Piraeus Bank (which had taken over ATE) due to overwhelming operational costs. Although the people of Mytilene are concerned about its future, given the venue’s large size and high expenses, Megalou emphasized that the bank would support a new tenant. “Our intention is to rent out the building again. The Council of State has designated it as a historic cafe, which is its only permissible use, but this can be easily combined with artistic and cultural events. Imagine a space that hosts art exhibitions while functioning as a traditional cafe, which we aim to restore to its former glory. We have preserved some of the old furniture and are refurbishing it. We believe that if we find the right tenant, we can create something unique for the city, aligning with the social responsibility we have as stewards of the island. This is not a short-term effort but one that will endure for years and become a jewel of the city,” he said.
