By Ioanna Paravalou

In the northwestern part of the prefecture of Ileia in the Peloponnese, is Divri, a village whose seven charming neighborhoods lie at different altitudes ranging between 800 and 950 meters on verdant Mount Lampeia.

According to ancient mythology, Lampeia’s forested slopes and deep valleys were the playground of the god Pan and his nymphs.

Mount Lampeia is also the site of Hercules’ fourth labor and the source of the Erymanthos River, whose waters are rich with trout and which is perfect for rafting and kayaking and forms the natural border between the prefectures of Ileia and Arcadia.

In older times, the area was richly populated and wealthy, as attested by the exquisite murals in the 12th-century Church of Aghia Triada in the neighborhood of Kroustades and in a reference to Divri in a 1533 manuscript at the Jerusalem Patriarchate.

During the Greek War of Independence in 1821, the population was decimated in the Battle of Lala. At the time, the area’s watermills were used to manufacture gunpowder for the war, as they were in nearby Dimitsana.

As the capital of the Lampeia Municipality from 1835 to 1912, Divri served an important financial, cultural and administrative hub. It also boasted Ileia’s first school, which opened in 1828 -- making it one of the first in Greece as well -- while the surviving stately homes, imposing churches, historical monasteries and ornate masonry framing the natural springs are further testimony to this bright chapter in its history.

Today, Divri belongs to the Municipality of Ancient Olympia.

The neighborhoods of Divri

Exploring Divri takes a good deal of footwork as it is arranged in seven neighborhoods (known as “machalades”) separated by a stream: Agora, Pera Machala, Kroustades, Karyanades, Lazarades, Vasilaious and Perdikarades. Each neighborhood has it own church and social structure, with the central road traversing the village and forming the high street of shops, cafes, tavernas and butchers, which are definitely worth a visit as the region is renowned for its meat.
The traditional architecture is still evident in the larger homes: built of stone blocks on two or three levels, with red-tiled roofs. Some still have their original ornate wooden balconies as well.

Buildings that are worthy of note are the school, which was built with a donation by national benefactor Andreas Syngros in 1907, as well as the stately residences known as the Antoneiko (1840), Petralaiko (1850) and Stefanopouleio (1860).
For a wonderful view, walk up to Pera Machala and the Church of Aghia Marina. From there, there is also a path that leads to the Church of Aghios Panteleimonas.

At the village entrance, coming from the town of Pyrgos, you will see the Divri Monastery, which was founded in 1700.

The environs

A visit to the Monastery of Panaghia Chrysopigi, located 3 kilometers outside Divri, is a must. The road is only partly paved, but the dirt part is easy to drive along.

The monastery celebrates its feast day on September 8. It is believed to have been built in the 12th century and the main church boasts exquisite murals. During the War of Independence, the monastery provided sanctuary to the “klefts” (freedom fighters) of Olonos, while its abbott, Paisos Skandamis, also served as a commander.

Before visiting the monastery, be sure to call in advance and inform Father Ioakeim (tel 26240.81263).

Twenty kilometers from Divri, along a very picturesque route, will bring you to the villages of Foloi, Lala and Koumani, the former of which is home to a famed oak forest, the only one of its kind in the Balkans and which covers 21,800 hectares and is protected by Natura 2000. It also has a small museum that provides interesting information on its history and on the flora and fauna that are endemic to it. The Foloi Forest gets its name from the mythical Pholus, the chief of the centaurs, who lived there and were killed by Hercules after they turned against him for taking their wine.

On the road from Foloi to Lala, you will see to your right the area where the historic battle of Pousi was fought, the final push of the Battle of Lala, in which the Greeks defeated the Muslim Albanians of the area. The road out of Lala leads to Ancient Olympia.

Another pretty drive is from Milies to the village of Neraidia (which means fairy). This is the source of the Enipeas, a tributary of the Alfeios, and it boasts a watermill under the shade of grand plane trees as well as the so-called “fairy’s cave” (Neraidospilia).

Tripotamia is also worth a visit, as it stands on the border between three prefectures (Ileia, Achaia and Arcadia) and three rivers (Aroanios, Seiraios and Erymanthos). Its highlights are an impressive stone bridge and the ruins of Ancient Psophida.

Back in Divri, the village tavernas serve up local meat cooked on charcoal, traditional roasts and excellent baklava.